"Why *eyes 1st* Stunts Growth of Your Artistry"

Aaaah....the debate goes on between aspiring/new/working/retail Make-Up Artists & veteran/Top Industry Pro Make-Up Artists...

The big question: Apply *eyes 1st* or *foundation 1st*? Why? Does it matter? Depends on the artist, right? Some techniques are better in some situations than others, right? Well...

I count myself amongst the veterans in the Make-Up Artist's groups I cited above. Working in this industry for the past 20+ years, I am thankful to have been able to see & experience many sides, aspects, scenarios and work conditions industry-wide. Many consistencies exist as a Make-Up Artist navigates their different jobs. Whether consumer applications in the retail environment, bridal, photography, video, fashion, film or television - you are expected to adopt industry standards and produce make-up in accordance with the industry aesthetic.

I'll begin by giving my opinion on the whole argument: Foundation 1st, no bones about it!
FOUNDATION: Definitions
1) Noun - The basis or groundwork of anything.
2) Noun - The act of founding, setting up or establishing.
3) Noun - A cosmetic, as cream or liquid, used as a base for facial make-up.
Synonyms: spine, fundament, infrastructure, anchor, cornerstone
Source, World English Dictionary found here.

With that said, foundation is indeed the groundwork for setting up a beautiful make-up application for these reasons.

• Skin prep and expert application of foundation is essential to your end result. All of your color products (eye shadow, blush, brow color, lip liner, bronzer etc) perform better, LOOK BEST & go on more smoothly when your base is in place
• When time is of the essence, EVERYONE (actor, model, newscaster, singer, consumer, all clients) look better and more together when foundation is CENTRAL to the application
• A well prepped, even & smooth complexion is the crux of the make-up industry standard & aesthetic...PERIOD
  
  
  Ok, now we get to the juicy part. As an avid user of TWITTER & FACEBOOK for the past 2+ years, I have been able to connect with more make-up artists in/on so many more levels of the industry than I ever imagined I would. Through these electronic medium - the conversations, advice, tips, photo exchange, sharing & everything make-up/beauty have taken on a new level colleague interaction. Fantastic! This whole *eyes 1st* vs *FOUNDATION 1st* debate has gone back & forth on a global stage.
  
  So I have to ask, WHERE DID THIS *EYES 1ST* MONSTROSITY COME FROM??? I had NEVER heard of it until I 1st free-lanced at a retail counter (to remain nameless for the purpose of fairness) where the manager told me that this is an advised practice that was put into place to avoid foundation being ruined by 'fall-out' from eye shadow. I've heard (with my own ears) that almost ALL of the MUAs who use the *eyes 1st* method say that they go this route for that same reason. I don't argue the fact that you do indeed avoid 'fall-out' if you do *eyes 1st* but...let's talk about 'fall-out'.
  
  'Fall-out' occurs when excess eye shadow falls (gravitational pull) from an eye brush or is otherwise expelled (velocity) from the brush during application of eye shadow. Back & forth whisking of an eye brush can indeed send excess eye shadow to parts of the face that we do not desire eye shadow to appear. So what is a make-up artist to do? Having posted this subject to my FACEBOOK profile, the discussion did indeed heat up over there! Arguments for yeah & nay on both sides. We even had the fabulous Michelle Villanueva of Shadow Shields (http://www.shadowshields.com/) chime in because they received a shout out on the *eyes 1st* side. One thing is certain, MUAs & consumers that use them love them! I haven't gotten around to it as of yet, but when I do try Shadow Shields, I will STILL APPLY *FOUNDATION 1st* because I agree with many top industry pros on the importance of that part of make-up application technique & based on my own experiences.
  
  "Why *eyes 1st* Stunts Growth of Your Artistry"
  
  Ok, this is where I explain just a few of many technical aspects of why/how *eyes 1st* can indeed stunt the growth of our first MUA group, aspiring/new/working/retail artists.
  
  A) I see it as a crutch that may hold you back:
  
  If you ONLY aspire to apply flawless make-up with the *eyes 1st*  application order, then ask yourself - When will?
  
  • You extend your technique in the direction of achieving better & more precision?
  • Your methods peak in the areas of brush selection for particular areas of the eye?
  • You push yourself to adjust how much product you pick up on the brush & do sufficient 'tap-off' to avoid 'fall-out' in the first place?
  • You commit to refining your personal brush techniques?  (which will make it way more likely that you rarely experience significant 'fall-out' if you have any at all)
  • You step into the reality of the TOP INDUSTRY PROFESSIONAL MAKE-UP ARTISTS who are where they are because THEY CHALLENGED THEMSELVES ALONG THE WAY. They honed their skills, and refined their techniques in ways that catapulted the term 'fall-out' from their vocabularies.
  As you step into different circles in the industry, I believe you may find that other industry pros expect your work to reflect a high industry standard. *Eyes 1st* may get in the way of execution of this. A few scenarios:
  
  • The photographer is shooting with an HD camera. You get the whole application finished so that you can start shooting. The camera picks up the fact that you have gone the *eyes 1st* route because it shows up in the bridge of nose/eye area.
  • The area above/in the top of your clients/model/bride's brow does not have properly applied foundation as a base - so it just does not look as "clean" as it could/should.
  • There is a definite line of demarcation between lastly laid foundation and this eye shadow that proceeded it.
  • So in essence, you really DO NOT save time with *eyes 1st* method (as proponents of this method say is 1 reason for their choice to use it) when you have to go back & make corrections to your 'house' because your 'basement' has not been laid properly. This also squashes the "clean" argument.
  The point of this blog post is to get MUAs to thinking about additional ways to improve their skill level. Many speak of aspirations to one day have stellar careers & cosmetics empires like Billy B., Kevin James Bennett, who is team eyes 1st along with Pat McGrath (& when you are as masterful as they are at BOTH eyes 1st & foundation 1st, let me know), Sam Fine, Lottie Stannard, Bobbi Brown, Tym Buacharern, Francois NARS, Val Hunt & others who would likely vote on the side of *foundation 1st* (please advise if they tell you differently). Many top pros use the trick where you apply a bit of loose powder to the area below the eyes/tops of cheeks to catch *fall-out*. To be noted, even the ones that use this trick have no notable *fall-out* anyhow because they have/employ skills & techniques that make it a non-issue.
  
  In conclusion, WHAT IF *EYES 1ST* IS NOT AN OPTION, how would YOU - AS A MAKE-UP ARTIST IMPROVE TECHNICAL ASPECTS OF YOUR APPLICATION METHOD (s) TO ENTIRELY AVOID THE DREADED 'FALL-OUT' SCENARIO? It would behoove any advocate of the *eyes 1st* method to think about ways of evolving. Worst possible outcome is that you will become a BETTER & MORE SOUGHT AFTER MAKE-UP ARTIST in the end. Your work will reflect that fact & you will then find yourself advancing upon more of your dreams & aspirations in the field. If you want to argue THAT, I'll assume you just like to argue. Your consideration of dropping/picking up this method or that method could be the difference between you staying local or going global. (in a manner of speaking)
  
  Sincerely,
  
  Jennifer James Beauty,
  Shop Steward of the *Foundation 1st* Global Union of Make-Up Professionals
  ;-) Find me on Twitter here & find my fellow union members w/ hashtag #TeamFoundationFirst!
  
  Related Blogs:
  MakeUp 411 brings you Kevin James Bennett's Essential Techniques (incl *Eyes 1st*)    http://makeup411.com/ea_info/id/374/ 
  Hello Beautiful Wake Up Your Eyes With Foundation http://bit.ly/9wBvIo
  
  http://www.jenniferjames-beauty.com
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

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"I love working at _____!" OH DO YOU? REALLY? REALLY?!

The makeup counter experience from the retail makeup artist's perspective is very interesting. Over the years, I have been fortunate enough to have seen this from behind the counters of several industry powerhouse makeup lines. I have a few observations to share;  many of which you may be able to identify with.

A little background...I happen to be the quintessential, epitomical, text book definition of loner/people person. Don't do cliques, yet very social. Treasure me time, but can work a room. Enjoys silence & is often THEE loudest person in the room. These two sides of me have been very conducive to my career choices & my philosophy concerning commitment to my craft. Glad to have been able to strike a little balance...ok enough about me.

Social media has become an experiment of sorts for me. Having connected with soooooo many people from so many places & at different stations in life - I can't help but notice that I have become a magnet for young makeup artists. Some of them hungry, some lazy (want the hook-up, don't want to test, don't realize their skills need major honing) & some are truly talented with lofty ambitions. I am seeing everything with my 'magnetism'. I believe they can detect that I am s sucker for answering makeup & makeup industry questions. AND I AM! Hopeless information sharer. It's all I know...ok moving along.

Then there are those newbie makeup artists who are responsible for inspiring this blog entry: "I LOVE MY JOB! I LOVE MAKEUP! I LOVE WORKING AT _____!"

...so I challenge them to truthfully testify, again profess undying adoration for the position they have been so blessed to be in - with my snarky, sarcastic (admittedly almost snide & condescending) --- OH DO YOU? REALLY? REALLY?!
Why do I ask this?  I ask because some people do makeup (doing the verb) & some people are Make Up Artists - they personify BE THE NOUN!!!

It's what I have seen. Many of my counter colleagues used those words without bringing the work ethic with them. Glad to report they have been in the minority for my personal experience. When I think about the culprits, UGH! I will never understand it. Seems some show up everyday JUST to collect a check; no real interest in advancing their artistry, excelling in customer service, getting their 'chops' so that they are ready for what's next in the industry for a makeup artist that wants to go somewhere beyond management in the retail environment.

MUAs who use words like passion, love, my life, what I want to do...we have heard it all!
So I say...if  it means that much to you, don't just do the verb - BE THE NOUN!!!

 ~ Exceed expectations. Command industry language & terminology. Push your product knowledge beyond the employee handbook. Greet each day as another opportunity to shine. Regard every customer as the next celebrity. Know the production details for every company campaign. Be able to quote industry history. Study makeup artistry & challenge yourself to execute industry aesthetics - without fail. BELIEVE & PROVE TO YOURSELF THAT THE ARTIST IN YOU CAN CREATE SOMETHING YOU HAVE NEVER SEEN! BE THE NOUN!!!

These are things I had pressed myself to do over the years as a retail artist & freelancer. I know that I am better, exceedingly prepared, & absolutely more qualified for my current full-time career as a Make Up Artist. So my charge is this: You say this is your passion, then pursue every aspect of it as such. MUAs, you can do this...BE THE NOUN!!!

--> Jennifer James currently works as a full-time MAKE-UP ARTIST & part-time Educator who splits the year between hometown Detroit, New York City and whereever else beauty takes her.


related blogs:
Cosmetology School. Yea or Nay? NAY!
OPEN NOTE TO MUAs & ASPIRING MAKEUP ARTISTS
RANT: Best Face Forward? by Nepenthe aka Beauty Thesis

http://www.jenniferjames-beauty.com Pin It Now!